Healing Destination’s: Lake Atitlán
Surrounded by three volcanos and numerous villages along the water’s edge, Lake Atitlán is a shimmering blue travelers dream. The geography of the lake is said to be a vortex of supernatural energy, sourced from the volcanic tectonic plates.
Sustainable agroforestry, traditional medicines, Mayan heritage and plant based foods are just a few key components to the healing magic of Lake Atitlán.
Attracting backpackers, yogis, health practitioners and digital nomads, this plant based healing community offers a generous welcome to world travelers seeking healing destinations.
Arrival to San Marcos La Laguna
Guatemala City to Lake Atitlán can take 2.5 up to 4.5 hours depending on the time of day or mode of transportation, and the cost of getting there can vary. But for this healing destination in Guatemala, it is worth it!
Many backpackers take the camionetas or chicken busses, which are the most cost-effective way of getting across Guatemala. At 33 years old I’ve come to a decision about “getting there” and my inner council and I agree to the least amount of time spent in transit.
To foster more grace and ease, I seek direct flights, exit row upgrades and non-public transportation when possible. Costing only 700Q ($90) for a one way, I opted for the private car.
The road to San Marcos was closed for construction during my stay so I had the option of getting dropped off in Panajachel or San Juan. From there, you can take a 20 minute boat to San Marcos.
At the docks be prepared to speak some Spanish, it will help you with the price of your boat ride. Contingent on the paleness of your skin and the sureness of your speech, each ride can cost anywhere from 10Q to 25Q ($3.50) per trip.
Where to Stay:
1. Las Casas de Suenos
Location, Location, Location! Nestled on the edge of a hill above the Cerro Tzankujil Nature Reserve, this magical house is three levels of open floor, eco-sensual dwelling.
The natural, open air villa on the water is the perfect setting to begin your healing journey in Guatemala.
Home is a place where you feel at ease in your surroundings. It offers the bare necessities and the authenticity of simplicity. For three nights I felt a new sense of home. I felt fully embraced by the peaceful blue dawn over the lake, with a wood fire burning at my bed foot’s edge.
I called a local healer and she met me the following afternoon at my cliffside retreat. We took turns carrying her massage table up the steep, winding path. She brought Doterra essential oils, copal incense and candles to set with my balcony space at my Airbnb.
She spoke with a friend in town whom delivered enough wood to my doorstep to keep me warm from the sudden rainstorm.
2. The Yoga Forest
Arriving and exiting The Yoga Forest is steep and narrow. A series of trails and mountain carved steppingstones are a part of the pilgrimage to this serene forest oasis.
I stayed a few nights in a private cabin above timberline. I woke up for morning meditation at 7:30AM. This was followed by 90 minutes of gentle yoga. Be sure to watch their calendar for retreats offering plant medicine, Acro yoga, Kirtan and meditation. Or just book a stay and drop into the current offerings!
Bring a small flashlight or headlamp and take note of the small arrows pointing the way when the path diverges.
Update: The Yoga Forest has moved location. Click here for the latest rendition!
3. Eagles Nest
With a focus on community, yoga and movement arts, Eagles Nest is an intentional hosting space for travelers. They offer retreats, events, workshops and summits.
I attended the Solstice Festival where I danced, drank non alcoholic elixirs, sat by the fire and enjoyed the company of locals and travelers. The three day festival included yoga, meditation, workshops, ecstatic dance and cacao ceremony. I met other travelers from the States, Holland, Estonia and Ireland.
The café here has a simple yet remarkable menu with cozy floor cushions that invite warm conversation and magnificent views. For 50Q ($6.50) I recommend the dish of the day which is a large organic flavorful vegetarian plate, divine! Watch the sunset over the lake and be sure to check out the bulletin board for bodywork and medicine circles.
Where to Eat in San Marcos:
1. Circle Bakery and Café
Vegetarian café offering fresh baked breads, breakfast and lunch. I ordered the vegan plate and the veggie sandwich to go so I could use my credit card to meet the minimum spend of 100Q ($13). As far as I could tell, there is just one ATM in San Marcos and it was closed on my arrival. It’s best to arrive with cash but in case you spent it all on transportation, come eat for two at Circle.
2. El Buho
It’s a place where you come for one thing; the Pad Thai. Beautiful, open floor restaurant with cushions and creative lighting attracting all the familiar faces you will see about town.
3. Vida Cocina Creativa
At breakfast on the upper deck with un-obstructed views of the volcano’s you will change your plans. I foresee this in your future just as it happened in mine! It was here, my last lunch before taking a boat to San Pedro, then a car to Antigua that I slowed it down and bought a new return ticket home. Thank you Vida for a phenomenal breakfast that significantly altered the course of my stay.
4. Chocolate Diego’s, San Pedro
Guatemala has a long cacao tradition and there are quite a few places for observing the process from raw bean to chocolate bar. The cacao can be prepared both raw or roasted and then ground into a fine paste or powder to be prepared in solid blocks, bars and drinks. Ceremonial cacao is traditionally attuned to the energies of the day according to the Mayan calendar, offering an intentional medicine. Vibrationally the cacao is said to be resonate to the heart and it is brought into ceremony for inspiring closeness to Mother Earth. Here at Chocolate Diego’s I was able to grind the cacao using a stone cylinder as well as taste the various stages in the making of cacao.
Textile Shopping in Panajachel
A few streets off the main road from the docks are about a dozen textile vendors in a quiet enclave. Containing woven textiles in the draping’s of pillowcases, tapestries, handbags, belts, jackets and traditional clothing, the goods here are very good.
My eyes had been window shopping for nearly 8 days before I made my first purchase. Then I spotted a tan leather bucket bag with woven indigo’s and greens and that was the moment I took a deep breath and said to myself, “Where’s the ATM.”
I purchased several items from a shop that supported the Kakchikel women weavers. Maintaining traditional weaving and jaspe techniques passed down from Mayan ancestry, these purchases here support an independent income for the weavers and their families.
The quality from vendor to vendor can vary. Even yet I was happy to find sturdy zippers and strong woven pieces that were made to last.
Other 1/2 day Trips on Lake Atitlán:
1. San Juan La Laguna
The umbrellas lining the street to the docks add a special welcome to San Juan. The shopping here is good and the ATM’s are dependable.
San Juan is also very popular for hiking La Nariz el Indio. Do note that it is advised to go with a guide due to safety and the land regulations.
2. Panajachel
After hearing mixed reviews on Panajachel I was pleasantly surprised to find several lovely cafes offering soups, green smoothies, fresh baked breads and pastries. The shopping here is very good.
3. Tzununa
Formed by the eruption of lava, Lake Atitlán is a vertex for sacred space. Curated spaces like Gaia Dance Temple, Eagles Nest and Yoga Forest offer space for dwelling, learning, dancing, eating and communing. Take a tuktuk from the docks for 15Q and then walk the short path through the forest to enter Gaia Dance Temple. I participated in a fire ceremony here honoring the ancestors and the elements. “Earth is my body. Water is my Blood. Air is my breath. Fire is my spirit.”
4. Santa Cruz La Laguna
I felt lucky to have found accommodations at Arbol Sagrado for Christmas. These waterfront cottages are fourteen months new and luxurious. Offering private Jacuzzis, a temazcal sauna, infinity pool, soft linens, a fully equipped kitchen, kayaks and private dock, I assure you this place is a dazzling gem on the water with everything you need to relax and enjoy.
You can ask your boat captain to dock at the colorful platform for Arbol Sagrado, just point it out before the Santa Cruz La Laguna docks. Or take the lakefront path, an easy 10 minute walk from the main docks.
Another great spot nearby is Sacred Cliff, a new modern luxury property cascading over the rocks with pristine views of the lake. I will be booking my stay here next time!
Mayan Temezcal
If you have an opportunity to take in a temezcall during your stay, do it. Temazcal comes from the Nahuatl language and translates as “house of heat.” The sauna is typically a round, domed structure constructed of wood, cement, and volcanic stone.
In a temazcal ceremony the fragrant herbs are bundled in the center of the circle while the Shaman pays homage to the four directions and elements. Traditionally Mayans used the temazcal to treat illness, aid in childbirth, purification and recovery after battle or sports. Paired with an evening dip in the lake, the temazcal is wonderfully therapeutic.
My twelve days in Guatemala filled me with a familiar wanderlust met with an unexpected shedding of direction. I extended my trip another 6 days!
Traveling is my favorite medicine. It invites us into the spaces of separation, transitioning and experiencing. Traveling exposes our individual fibers. We are both the thread and the divine weavers on the loom of a shared human experience.
Next stop, Antigua!For a comprehensive guide on where to stay, visit and eat, check out the Antigua Guatemala guide here.
Awesome post ?
Enjoyed the pics and the information you shared! ?
Thank you!
Thank you! So glad you enjoyed.
Very informative and accurate blog. I lived in San Marcos at Lake Atitlan for 3 years and know all these places, cafes and activities well, including having lived twice at La Casa Sueno.
And thank you for the mention of my textile blog?
Amazing! thank you for reading!